Summer Climbing at the Gunks
Photo By Eric Ratkowski.
Summertime climbing in the Gunks? It may be hot outside, but no problem … IF you have the right beta. We asked the authors of the area’s climbing guidebook — imaginatively called Gunks Climbing — to share some smarmy-weather tips. Read on to find out more about summer climbing in this iconic Northeastern destination.
Niru Nukalapati on Jackie, 5.5. Photo by Christian Fracchia.
The Gunks is located in New York State’s Shawangunk Mountains, mostly on land owned by the Mohonk Preserve, New York's largest non-profit nature preserve. It features world-class trad and multi-pitch climbing (as well as excellent bouldering). Like most climbing areas, the best time to visit is in spring and fall, however, climbing here is excellent all year, even in the heat of summer.
Summer temperatures at the Gunks average in the mid to upper 80’s, so expect heat and humidity. If you have the flexibility, check the weather forecast ahead of time and plan accordingly — you might get lucky and catch a cool spell. That said, you can still have fun even if it’s hot out.
The three authors of Gunks Climbing — Christian Fracchia, Andy Salo, and Eric Ratkowski — share expert strategies for making the most of a summer climbing day (and a few hazards to be aware of!). Armed with a little knowledge you can totally have a great time climbing at the Gunks in the summer.
Read on for the full beta!
Tip 1: Gear Up for Summer Climbing
Item 1: Pack plenty of water
Yup, we had to say this. Pro tip from Christian: Fill a water bottle with ice to have cold water later.
Item 2: Sun Protection
Illustration by Liv Walton.
There are a couple of options: First, a hooded sun shirt and hat, which many climbers use. Plenty of brands make SPF-rated sun shirts.
You can also opt for sunscreen, although there is some debate among climbers about whether sunscreen is safe for climbing gear. If you are going to use sunscreen, do your research and get a product that is safe for your skin, the environment, and your gear.
And don’t forget sunglasses!
Item 3: Bug Repellent
Eric suggests that during tick and chigger season, you steer clear of sitting or resting on grassy ledges. Chiggers are mostly harmless, but bites under the harness and around your shoes are very itchy and could last for a couple weeks. More on ticks in Tip 6 below.
You can also go the bug spray route, but bear in mind that DEET, the primary ingredient used in most bug repellent products, can be harmful for the environment and for your climbing gear. Always do your research! There are other types of bug repellents aside from DEET; check out this REI article for more information.
Tip 2: Check For Closures
The Mohonk Preserve often enacts closures throughout the year to protect peregrine falcon nest sites. For up-to-date info on which areas are closed to climbing, check the Mohonk Preserve Instagram or the Gunks Climbers’ Coalition website. If you purchased a digital guide through the Gunks Apps, they will provide the closure information on the respective apps.
About Gunks Apps
Christian Fracchia, one of the co-authors of our guidebook, is a local who has been climbing in this area for 37 years and counting. He started documenting the cliffs in 2010, works with the Mohonk Preserve on conservation projects such as bolting new anchors, and has some first ascents in the area. He also co-founded the digital guidebook app for the area, Gunks Apps.
Gunks Apps provides the Gunks app for iPhone and Android, and digital rock climbing guidebooks for dozens of areas. Each guidebook is written by a local, and includes route details, a tick list, filtering, and GPS navigation. Each route has a high-res base photo, zoomable aerial topo and/or map, and pitch-by-pitch description including descent info. You can filter the list by grade, protection, style, ticked status, or stars.
Using an app in conjunction with a guidebook is a great option to get the best of both worlds. Orient yourself to the cliff layout and sun exposure using the print guidebook map, then filter by climbs with the app. This combo will quickly and easily help you choose the best routes for the day!
Tip 3: Hit Cool Climbs
When building your ticklist for the Gunks, be sure to look at which way the wall is facing, to see when it will be getting the most sun. As you can see from the map below, most of the cliffs face southeast, so you can expect sun for most of the morning and into the day. Read on for recommended climbs.
Fun fact: If you have our guidebook, Gunks Climbing, you can use the introduction pages at the beginning of each section to see each sector’s sun exposure and when the ideal climbing times will be.
Map from Gunks Climbing.
Eric’s Recommended Summer Climbs:
CCK (5.7),
High E (5.6),
Moonlight (5.6),
Modern Times (5.8),
No Glow (5.9),
Directissima (5.9),
Bonnie's Roof (5.9),
Keep on Struttin’ (5.9),
Teeny Face (5.10a),
Amber Waves of Pain (5.10a),
Erect Direction (5.10d).
Enduro Man (5.11c),
Supper's Ready (5.12a)
Strategy 1: Morning Climbing at the Trapps and the Nears
Christian suggests hitting the Trapps and the Nears early in the morning (before 10 am). After 10, the cliff starts to get hot, and stays in the sun till afternoon. Take a siesta and cool off before the shade hits at around 3 pm.
Strategy 2: Shaded Climbs
There are routes that stay in the shade all day. Chimneys and dihedrals are good bets. Christian recommends right-facing corner systems like Easy Street (5.6+) and High Corner (5.5). Shady chimneys include Big Chimney (5.5) and Inside Out (5.9), which feel air conditioned with cool air wafting out from the depths. Andy adds that the Bonnie’s Roof/Ant's Line, Double Crack, and Ridiculissima areas are also great options.
Strategy 3: Multi Pitching
For multi-pitch routes, Andy and Christian advise staying off the cliff till it starts catching shade at around 2-3 pm. One of Andy’s strategies for hot summer days is this: “Once the entire cliff goes into the shade in the afternoon, I load up a small pack with food and water and climb a moderate route — such as Easy V, Andrew, or Moonlight — to the Grand Traverse Ledge. Then I do the great upper pitches of the routes from Arrow to High E — top pitches only — returning to the GT Ledge, not the ground. This area is out of the trees and tends to feel less humid and can catch a better breeze.”
Amber Johnstone on Moonlight, 5.6, Grand Traverse Ledge. Photo by Jeff Achey.
Tip 4: Beat the Crowds
Eric points out a photograph in the guidebook of the Uberfall in the 1970s, which shows a crowded crag. Though rare, weekends could look a bit like this. If you want to avoid standing in line for your routes, there are several strategies.
Strategy 1: Climb Dirty
Crowded Uberfall by Jonna Bragg.
There are many routes in the guidebook that see less traffic, even at popular sectors. Eric recommends Blueberry Ledges, Cold Turkeys, The Blackout, and Jean. Remember that ropewash and showers exist, so embrace your inner dirtbag and do the thing!
Strategy 2: Climb Scary
Climbing scary routes will get you on things few others want to attempt, but this tactic is for experienced leaders only. Eric says, “There are certainly cases where one notorious section keeps people away — Miss Bailey or Immaculate Virgin are great examples.” Get through the scary part and savor the fun climbing above.
Strategy 3: Climb Hard
Watch skilled climbers on their 10-and-up routes and try to up your game a bit. Place plenty of pro, prepare yourself for a bit of projecting, and go have some fun on a harder line. A good performance on the wall feels great, and a good mindset lasts past lowering.
Strategy 4: Climb Far
“Nobody likes to walk” — Eric Ratkowski
Tip 5: Watch Out for Copperhead Snakes
Copperhead looking friendly.
Copperheads, a venomous species, are found in the Gunks and will hang out in foliage, in rocky areas with nooks and crannies, and under logs. They have great camouflage, so they can even hide in plain sight. Bites from copperheads are seldom deadly to humans but they will ruin your day. Generally speaking, copperhead snakes are docile and you could spend an entire day climbing right next to them without knowing it. Regardless, check carefully around your belay area.
Tip 6: Do a Tick Check at the End of the Day
Andy notes that you should always do a thorough tick check after spending a day at the Gunks. Lyme Disease, among other tick-borne illnesses, is a real concern. This is a great resource for more information.
Tip 7: Cool Off in Town
Head to New Paltz to refuel at one of many great restaurant options, then browse for climbing gear in air-conditioned Rock and Snow, the local climbing shop with an amazing gear, guidebook, and climbing-shoe inventory. Next door is their consignment shop, with great deals on new and used stuff. Both stores are staffed by knowledgeable climbers.
Tip 8: Splash Around
Cool off in the swimming holes and streams in Minnewaska State Park or at the Coxing Kill in the Mohonk Preserve.
Whether you’re a weekend warrior with vacation days to use, or a dirtbag college kid on summer break, head to New York and capitalize on these last months of summer. If you do go to the Gunks or you have already been there this summer, tag us in your Instagram posts (@wolverinepublishing) or let us know what you thought via Direct Message. We’d love to hear about your experiences and epics.
Dustin Portzline on Doves, 5.9-. It looks slabby, but is it easy? Photo by Christian Fracchia.
Special thanks to Andy Salo, Christian Fracchia, and Eric Ratkowski for sharing their experienced knowledge of the Gunks.
Get The Book!
The Shawangunks — “the Gunks” to most of us — is one of the oldest climbing areas in the US, with a storied history dating back to the 1930s. Located 80 miles north of New York City, it has long been a focal point of rock-climbing culture, and remains a traditional climber’s paradise. There is no shortage of very difficult routes that will challenge the best climbers, but the Gunks is even more famous for its incredible easier climbs. You could spend several seasons exploring made-to-climb cracks, faces, overhangs, and dihedrals without ever venturing beyond the 5.7 grade! Multi-pitch outings abound, and the graded carriage road at the base of the cliffs allows easy strolls to even the most distant ends of the cliff.
This full-color, ruthlessly researched guide represents the “next generation” of Gunks guidebooks. It covers over 600 routes at the two main cliffs: the Trapps and Near Trapps. Cliff-base photos get you quickly oriented on the ground, and high-resolution aerial images show key features on routes. Detailed area and route descriptions help you find just the right flavor of climb. You’ll spend less time searching, and more time pulling overhangs, plugging cams, and chasing your own piece of history.
